Although the old Lisbon has been gradually disappearing, Chiado is one of the few areas in the city where you can still shop in century-old establishments.
Some bookstores and cafés, a flower shop, a chemist and a few other remain little changed since they were founded more than 50 years ago.
Founded in 1864, Casa Havaneza is the oldest cigar merchant in Lisbon. The importance of the place in the 1870s is documented in the writings by several Portuguese authors, including Eça de Queirós who mentions Casa Havaneza in several of his books. Largo do Chiado, 25
Next door to Casa Havaneza, A Brasileira founded in 1905 is one of Lisbon’s most famous cafés. Rua Garrett, 120-122
One of the oldest patisseries in Lisbon still in existence, Pastelaria Benard opened in 1868. Rua Garrett, 104
Livraria Sá da Costa
The future of this bookstore, founded in 1943, remains uncertain. After recently having closed down, the store reopened selling used and rare books. Rua Garrett, 100
Paris em Lisboa
Established in 1888, Paris in Lisbon is evidence of the elegant Chiado of the nineteenth century. At the time, the store sold the best linen, silk and embroidery directly from Paris, becoming a supplier of the royal Portuguese court by the beginning of the twentieth century. Over the years, the shop evolved to adapt to the new shopping patterns. Today, it is a three-storey shop offering a wide selection of bed, bath and table linen and related products. Rua Garrett, 77
Farmácia do Chiado
Farmácia do Chiado is the chemist on the site where Farmácia Durão was operating in 1882. The store’s elegant premises feature antique wooden counters and an arch that separates the customers’ area from where remedies used to be prepared. Rua Garrett, 90
Guinness Book elected Livraria Bertrand the oldest bookstore in the world still in operation. Bertrand company was established in 1732, but only in 1773, after the earthquake of 1755, did it move to its current location on Rua Garrett. Today, the bookstore is part of a nationwide book-chain of more than 40 stores. Rua Garrett, 73
Opened in 1909 on Rua Garrett, this jewelry was part of a business established in Porto. The premises are decorated in Louis XIV-style, and the wrought-iron façade dates back from 1939. Rua Garrett, 50
Casa Pereira specialises in tea, coffee, chocolate, candies and cookies sold in bulk. It is a family run business, and it remains little changed since it opened in 1930. Rua Garrett, 38
Florista Pequeno Jardim
This small staircase florist was established by a French man in the late nineteenth century. Rua Garrett, 61
Livraria Ferin is still today a family run bookstore. Established in 1840 by two daughters of a Belgian man (Ferin was his surname) who came to Portugal during the Napoleonic Wars, it is the second oldest bookstore in Lisbon, after Livraria Bertrand. Rua Nova do Almada, 70
From the tiny, unaltered old premises in a building with a neoclassical façade, Luvaria Ulisses is the last establishment in Lisbon that sells exclusively gloves and mittens. It was founded by Joaquim Rodrigues Simões in 1925. Rua do Carmo, 87A
Joalharia do Carmo
Next door to Luvaria Ulisses, the Carmo jeweler is still at the site on which it first opened in 1924. It is part of a family run business founded in Porto in the late nineteenth century. You will need to ring the bell if you want to go inside and admire the art deco interior. Rua do Carmo, 87B
Sources: Por uma Nova Chiadologia a Propósito da Participação da Escola Superior de Teatro e Cinema – As Artes na Esfera Pública (Escola Superior de Teatro e Cinema, junho 2015) by João Maria Mendes: http://hdl.handle.net/10400.21/4642; Câmara Municipal de Lisboa: www.cm-lisboa.pt (accessed on November 2015).